The Fourth Capital: What to Know About London

(Photo: Firstview; Ken Biggs/Getty Images (flag))

1. CHRISTOPHER KANE, 25

Why he’s good: He has demonstrated versatility by sending out dresses in styles that range from clingy, Herve Leger–like bondage straps to ruffles and reptile prints.
Important pieces: Faded, shredded denim (it’s back) with python-printed chiffon blouses.
Pedigree: Kane hadn’t even graduated yet from Central Saint Martins (where everyone on this page studied) when Donatella Versace asked him to consult in 2006. Career-catapulting publicity followed.
Tidbit: The Scottish designer carried on—to great reviews—even though 23 pieces were stolen from his spring 2008 collection just before the show.

2. MARIOS SCHWAB, 30

Why he’s good: The quiet, unassuming Brit is body-obsessed, using surgeonlike precision to cut his figure-hugging dresses.
Important piece: He dares to turn a pretty, slim floral day dress into something darker with peel-back layers that reveal a magnified viscera print beneath.
Pedigree: Born in Greece, he spent his high school years in Austria before heading off to London to study fashion.
Tidbit: Not that he’s necessarily kicking himself over the decision, but Schwab once turned down a job at the all-wonderful Lanvin.

3. GILES DEACON, 37

Why he’s good: London’s biggest young star right now, he had editors raving over his little black dress in the spring 2007 collection that was trimmed with metal S&M spikes.
Important pieces: Full-skirted, slightly retro dress printed with bloody deer; a classic purple prom dress with a cotton candy–like tulle swaddle under the skirt.
Pedigree: After graduating, he worked at Bottega Veneta and Gucci before going solo.
Tidbit: Designed the cover of his former girlfriend Beth Orton’s 2003 Other Side of Daybreak album.

4. JONATHAN SAUNDERS, 29

Why he’s good: Not overly arty like his British peers, Saunders toys with sleek, minimal, and graphic lines. No flowers and frippery.
Important pieces: His long, lean gowns accented with random blocks of black, white, and color.
Pedigree: While still an undergrad, Saunders created now seminal bird-of-paradise prints for Alexander McQueen’s spring 2003 show.
Tidbit: The Glasgow native (and son of Jehovah’s Witnesses) is relocating to New York next season to get more exposure.

5. FIONA SINHA, 28, AND ALEKSANDAR STANIC, 28

Why they’re good: While other Londoners do punk and theatrical kookiness, Brit-born Sinha and Croat Stanic prefer tailored femininity.
Important pieces: Six gorgeous bright blue looks, including two sack dresses, stiff jackets, and a puffed skirt.
Pedigree: They met at school and have been together design-wise and romantically since.
Tidbit: After their first show in 2004, megabacker Aeffe signed them up and, some say, pushed them to a tough-girl aesthetic, which didn’t gel. By spring 2008, they had dropped Aeffe and returned successfully to their own prettier ground

By Nandini D’Souza Published Nov 26, 2007

This entry was posted on Tuesday, February 5th, 2008 at 1:05 am and is filed under Fashion, Gen Now, Designers. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.

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The Fourth Capital: What to Know About London

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